When you pour a concrete slab, you're giving yourself a design material that is hard, durable, easy to clean, and adaptable to many designs. Read on to learn how to pour a concrete slab, as well as the materials you'll need, drying time, and helpful tips for mixing concrete.
Before You Begin
Before you begin your project, check with your local building department to see whether or not a building permit is needed. To do this, you will need to measure the lot size and lines in relation to the slab.
Pre-Mix vs. Loose Concrete Materials
Working concrete by hand in a wheelbarrow requires strength, organization, and speed. For a 3-foot by 3-foot slab, you will need two assistants. Two people will need to mix the concrete in the wheelbarrow, while a third person should spread the mixed concrete into the form.
- Pre-mix concrete: Pre-mix or ready-mix concrete is a blend of gravel, sand, cement, and other additives. Bagged and available in most home centers, pre-mix concrete contains all the materials to make concrete except for water.
- Loose ingredients: When mixing concrete from loose ingredients, use the 4/2/1 formula: four parts crushed rock, two parts sand, and one part cement.
Working With Pre-Mix Concrete
For most do-it-yourselfers, the best material for building a concrete slab is a ready-mix, crack-resistant concrete product.
The wet mix is poured into a prepared wood form and then left to cure. After the concrete has hardened, the sides of the form are knocked off, and the slab is ready to use.
Buy a crack-resistant, ready-mix to avoid setting a reinforcing bar (rebar) for strength. Its synthetic fibers eliminate the need for rebar on small-scale concrete slabs.
Using Volumetric Concrete Delivery
As an alternative to pre-mix concrete, volumetric concrete delivery mixes loose ingredients on-site. This gives you more control over the proportions of the concrete mixture.
Volumetric concrete is usually less expensive than pre-mix concrete since transportation costs are minimized.
When to Lay a Concrete Slab
Wait for dry, warm conditions to pour your concrete slab. For most ready-mixes, the temperature should be 70°F or higher for five days after pouring. You can pour the slab in colder temperatures, down to 50 °F, but extend the curing time to seven days.
Never pour concrete when temperatures are expected to dip below 40°F since it may cause the concrete to crack. Avoid pouring concrete when rain is expected as this can compromise the concrete's integrity.
Safety Considerations
Always wear the proper gear when working with concrete. Breathing protection, such as a dust mask, is crucial when working with dry concrete mix since it irritates breathing passages and lungs.
Safety glasses are also a good idea to prevent concrete from splashing into your eyes. Long pants, long sleeves, and gloves will help protect the skin.
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Hammer
- Level
- Electric miter saw or circular saw
- Concrete hand float
- Mixing hoe
- Wheelbarrow
- Measuring tape
- Shovel
- Tamper
- Eye and breathing protection
- Latex or nitrile gloves
- Speed square or carpenter's square
Materials
- 3 80-pound bags of ready-mix crack-resistant concrete
- 8 50-pound bags of all-purpose gravel
- 3 2 x 4s, 8-ft each
- 4 Wood stakes
- Deck screws
- Twine or mason's line
- 16d galvanized nails, 3 1/2 in
- Vegetable oil or release agent
Instructions
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Outline the Slab Location
In the desired location, use the tape measure and a rope or hose to lay out the general area of the concrete slab. Use the speed square or a carpenter's square to set the perpendicular lines.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Stake Out the Location
With the hammer, drive the four stakes into the ground at each of the four corners of the intended slab. Run the twine tightly between the stakes to define the slab area.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Remove the Turf
Use a shovel or a turf-cutting tool to remove turf or lawn about 6 inches beyond your marked area. The intent is to provide yourself with extra working room on all sides.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Lay the Sub-Base
Open the bags of all-purpose gravel and pour them into the slab construction site. Use the tamper tool to compact and flatten the gravel.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Set the Concrete Slab Form
Make concrete forms from two-by-fours. Or, depending on the price of wood, you may find that renting slab forms can be less expensive than building your own.
- Mark off four sections of the two-by-fours, each measuring 3 feet, 3 inches.
- Use the circular saw or electric miter saw to cut the wood.
- Drive the 16d galvanized nails into the boards to build the form.
- Place the form on the sub-base.
- Cut four scrap pieces of two-by-fours to about 12 inches long and sharpen each one to a point (one end only).
- Pound each stake into the ground near a corner of the form.
- Use a cordless drill to screw each stake into a side of the form to help stabilize it.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Coat the Concrete Form
Coat the inside of the form with vegetable oil or a concrete-form release agent, such as Kleen Kote's water-based release agent.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Wet the Sub-Base
With the garden hose, lightly wet down the sub-base.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Mix and Pour the Concrete
Mix the ready-mix concrete according to the manufacturer's specifications with the wheelbarrow, hoe, and hose. When it has a peanut butter-like consistency, pour it into the form. Push the concrete around the form with the hoe and with gloved hands.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Screed the Wet Concrete
With a scrap 4-foot-long piece of two-by-four, screed the top of the concrete slab. This is done by moving the piece of lumber (the screed) back and forth in a sawing motion to level the concrete and remove excess. Let the excess drop off the side for later removal.
Tap all around the outside of the form with a hammer to settle the concrete.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Float the Wet Concrete
Let the concrete settle until the surface water evaporates. Then, using a concrete hand float, smooth and compact the slab's surface.
A metal concrete trowel can be used 10 to 20 minutes after floating for a smoother finish. It can be left smooth or textured by lightly dragging a broom across the surface. An edging trowel can be used for rounding the perimeter edges for a stronger and more finished look.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
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Let the Concrete Cure
Let the concrete cure for about 48 hours. Keep the slab continually wet by misting it with the garden hose and keep it covered with plastic during this period. Full strength is typically achieved after 28 days, though it can be walked on after two days. It's best to wait 7 to 10 days before putting patio furniture on the slab.
The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe
Concrete Slab Costs
To calculate the materials for your concrete slab, you must determine the length and width of space and thickness of the slab. This table provides an average of the costs that you can expect.
Average Cost by Square Feet | |
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Size (sq. feet) | Cost |
10 by 10 (100) | $400 to $800 |
12 by 12 (144) | $576 to $1,152 |
10 by 20 (200) | $800 to $1,600 |
20 by 20 (400) | $1,600 to $3,200 |
20 by 30 (600) | $2,400 to $4,800 |
30 by 30 (900) | $3,600 to $7,200 |
40 by 40 (1,600) | $6,400 to $12,800 |
Costs by Slab Thickness | |
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Slab Thickness | Price Per Sq. Foot |
2 to 4 inches | $5 |
6 inches | $6 |
8 inches | $8 |
Tips For Pouring a Concrete Slab
- Be mindful of the concrete hardening time and work quickly.
- Adjacent concrete slabs can be laid—even using the same forms—to build an overall larger slab.
- Letting the concrete dry out too fast is the main cause of cracking, so be sure to keep it moist.
- Clean your tools quickly after use to keep the concrete from ruining them.
When to Call a Professional
Large concrete slabs are difficult for do-it-yourselfers to pour. When the concrete slab exceeds 25 to 40 square feet, it's probably time to call a concrete professional.
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Can you pour concrete directly on dirt?
You can pour concrete on dirt, but it must first be prepared by compacting the soil. You might need to add a gravel layer if the ground is clay.
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How thick does a concrete slab need to be to not crack?
For walkways, patios, garages, and driveways, pour a concrete slab at least 4 inches thick. Make the slab at least 5 to 6 inches to accommodate slabs for trucks or heavier vehicles.
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What are the disadvantages of a concrete slab?
Concrete slabs are durable and versatile, but their most significant disadvantage is they can crack if not maintained well. They are prone to more cracks when exposed to harsh weather conditions. You will need to seal and repair it if a crack appears.
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Without expansion joints, how large can a concrete slab be?
Expansion joints should be placed using this formula: thickness of the slab times 30 equals joint spacing. So, for a 4-inch concrete slab, expansion joints should be placed every 120-inches or every 10 feet.